Comments Off on Smoked Mackrel Doughnut by Ross Sloan
Jude Kerama’s Kota in Porthleven, Cornwall has a new Head Chef! Ross Sloan brings us this innovative Smoked Mackrel Doughnut and we can’t wait to try making it ourselves. If you have never had a savoury doughnut before, then this is definitely one to test out!
1 x stick of fresh horseradish, peeled and grated
3 x tbsp of mayonnaise or crème fraiche
30mls of vinegar
1 x tsp of sugar
Smoked Mackrel Doughnuts
250g Duchy potatoes
500g smoked mackerel made into a paste
240ml full fat milk
130g unsalted butter
200g plain flour
Deep fat fryer
Potato mouli or ricer
Mix the horseradish, vinegar and sugar together and leave to stand for 5 minutes.
Transfer this to the blender along with the rest of the ingredients and blend until completely smooth.
Transfer this to a squeezy bottle.
Cooking Method(Smoked Mackrel Doughnuts)
Boil potatoes. When cooked and dry, puree with a mouli or potato ricer, then add the mackerel paste.
Combine the milk and butter in a saucepan and bring to the boil.
Add the flour and stir continually until the mix is cooked; it will come away from the sides of the pan at this point.
Next, transfer the batter to a mixer and then beat it on a low setting, slowly adding the eggs one at a time. Add the mackerel mixture and seasoning, and then mix well.
Transfer to a piping bag.
To make the doughnuts, draw a circle of approximately 2 inches in diameter onto parchment paper and pipe mixture onto this.
Make circles in the middle to create mini, round doughnuts and then, using the deep fat fryer, at 165/170°c, fry until golden and crisp.
Once cooked, place the horseradish sauce in the middle of each doughnut and top with a generous amount of caviar or herring roe.
(This makes a lot of stock, but it freezes well so you can use again or with a bowl of ramen noodles)
2 yuzu fruit juiced
10cm square of kombu
75gms bonito flakes
2 litres spring water
100mls Japanese white soy sauce (shoyu
For the crab ravioli:
Squid ink pasta dough:
125gms Pasta flour
1 whole large free range egg
14gms squid ink
½ teaspoon salt
75gms lemon sole fillet
½ teaspoon salt
Pinch of white pepper
150 mls double cream
50gms picked white crab meat
25gms brown crab meat
20 mussels washed and de bearded
20 cockles purged in water
4 pan fried scallops
1 cup of Mylor prawns – deep fried
4 100gm fillets Hake roasted
1 tin wasabi caviar
50gms Cornish dried sea greens
50gms Cornish dried red dulse seaweed
50 gms Wakame dried seaweed
4 shitake mushrooms sliced and warming in the dashi stock
80 gms samphire gently steamed
A few leaves of crispy deep fried kale
20 small florets of Romanesque cauliflower steamed
For the Dashi Stock:
Soak the kombu in the spring water overnight and leave at room temperature.
Next day heat the water and the kombu to 60*C and hold the temperature for 1 hour and then remove the kombu.
Increase the temperature to 80*C, add the bonito flakes and soak till the bonito sinks to the bottom, this will only take up to 30 seconds.
Pass through a muslin and then add the sake and season with the white soy sauce and yuzu
If you need additional seasoning, add salt to taste.
Leave warm on the side.
For the Squid Ink Pasta Dough:
Mix the egg, squid ink, and salt in a Robot Coupe to combine.
Add the flour and mix until it resembles a breadcrumb texture.
Remove the dough to a floured work top and kneed till smooth, approximately 8 minutes.
Cover with cling film and rest in a fridge for at least 30 minutes.
For the Raviolo Filling:
Chill the robot coupe bowl down in a fridge, take out and add the lemon sole and salt and blend quickly till smooth, drizzle in the cream till it’s all incorporated and then pass through a sieve.
Season with the pepper and fold in the white and brown crab meat, place in a piping bag and chill.
Roll out the pasta dough in a pasta machine, folding over and putting it back through while bringing the thickness setting down to number 2.
Cut the pasta sheet in two and on one side pipe 4 mounds of fish mousse on to it leaving room between each mound.
Brush the other side of pasta sheet with water and place on top of the other sheet and seal all around the mousse mounds pushing out any excess air.
Cut out with a round cutter.
Cook the raviolis in a pot of salted simmering water until it floats, refresh in ice water and then wait to reheat when needed.
Have the dashi stock warming but not boiling on the side and add the cockles and mussels.
Warm the raviolis in a pan of salted water.
Place a sprinkle of each seaweed at the bottom of 4 large bowls then the ravioli on top.
Place the mussels and cockles around the bowls and add the hot stock, the hot stock will re hydrate the seaweeds so do put a little extra.
Spoon some shitakes around each plate.
Dot each piece of hake with wasabi caviar and then place the Romanesque cauliflower around the bowl.
Garnish with all the seafood, samphire and crispy kale leaves.
Over the Easter weekend we were lucky enough to visit chef Jude Kereama’s flagship restaurant Kota in the heart of coastal Porthleven, Cornwall. It was a truly phenomenal culinary experience that went beyond its Michelin Bib Gourmand and 3 AA Rosettes.
If you want to extend your stay, Kota even has some gorgeous accommodation that can be found here and we thoroughly recommend exploring Porthleven and surrounding areas including Marazion (home to St Michael’s Mount!)
We did the 6-course Tasting Menu with paired wines and thoroughly reccomend. Here’s what we had…
Cocktails and Oysters
We kicked things off with some refreshing cocktails, one Yuzu Sake and Cucumber Martini (House infused wakame vodka, yuzu macerated sake, lime, sugar and cucumber), and one Kota Fizz (House infused cucumber vodka, elderflower liqueur, Prosecco, cucumber twist).
Now, when you’re eating in a harbour on the Cornish coast, you absolutely must have oysters (or we think so anyway!) We ordered two of each, one a Tempura with baby gem, wasabi tartare, and pickled cucumber and the other a Natural oyster with rice wine cucumber granita, ponzu lime dressing. We were advised by the staff to ‘chew’ the natural oyster rather than the traditional ‘down in one’ approach to oysters and boy was it a treat! The granita was such an intense burst of flavour it really brought the oyster and its flavours of the sea to life. And this was just the beginning…
The Miso Butter with the Amuse Bouche was another show-stealer and we could have had a whole starter portion of the soup which was zingy and had a great depth of flavour.
The first course was a Scallop with crispy onions, leeks and XO Sauce. I’m not sure I’ve had XO Sauce before and it was a real delight. Sweet and spicy, it lifted the scallop and was one of my favourite dishes of the night – such an inspired combination of flavours!
Venison Tartare & Katsu Panko Fish Goujon
We parted ways on this course and had one meat option and one pescatarian. The first was a venison tartare, hazelnuts, apple, celeriac, gochujang dressing and the pescatarian alternative was a Panko coated white fish goujon, katsu curry sauce, carrot & daikon pickle. The apple and celeriac cut through the naturally rich venison deliciously whilst the goujon was hands down the best fish goujon we’ve had!
The favourite dish of the menu was the Monkfish dish: Crispy Kataifi wrapped monkfish, hake, lemongrass, kafir lime leaf & coconut bisque, yuzu saffron mayo. The bisque was velvety, and to-die-for whilst the Kataifi wrapped monkfish was unlike anything we’ve seen before. Just as with the cocktail back at the beginning, yuzu was used in such an inventive way, elevating all the flavours.
Next was a Moorland dry aged sirloin, short rib, beets, and horseradish. Just look at the colours on that plate! We think it speaks for itself! Such incredible flavours…
Honey & almond cake
Ok, coming up is one of the most interesting (and delicious) things we’ve ever tasted. We’d not had it before but the goat’s cheese sorbet was fantastic. It wasn’t too sharp, the sorbet was soft, and it was the perfect accompaniment to a honey-based cake. The whole dish consisted of lemon, thyme & honey syrup, goats cheese sorbet, and a walnut crumb. As if this wasn’t the perfect ending to an amazing tasting menu, there was more…
This chocolate, hazelnut & cherry baked alaska was delightful. The mousse inside was so light and technically really impressive. Served with a 10 year-old Tawny Port, it was a magical ending to the menu. The cherries and crumb gave such a satisfying crunch – a real, indulgent treat!
Despite being very full, we still managed some delicious petit fours afterwards (see left).
All in all…
This is a meal we won’t be forgetting anytime soon. Jude’s team took such great care of us and we couldn’t recommend visiting Kota more. Check out the menu here and book now. There are lots of great options but if you can, go for the six course tasting menu. You won’t regret it!